North v. South
More often than not, coastal position is used to discuss wines. But why not latitude? This week we explore selections which represent an extreme north-south differentiation, within the same country. California, Chile, Argentina and…Italy are all exceptionally ‘tall’ stretches of land with not only diverse landscapes, but an inescapable correlated diversity of thermal influences and resulting climates as well as geological formations both exposed and of subterranean nature. Andiamo! We are about to go to Italy!!! But save yourself the expense of a plane ticket and just slide on by our Fenway location this Thursday from 5:30pm–7:30pm.
Piedmont – Barolo and Barbaresco, Nebbiolo-based wines that have been dubbed the ‘King of Wines and the Wines of Kings’ (but wait, there’s more in the next paragraph!). I myself am a collector of Nebbioli (the plural of Nebbiolo), particularly back to the 1960’s. The payoff of patience on these wines can be a truly enlightening experience. And yes, they ARE worth it. Nebbiolo is pretty magical. It can be sturdy and elegant at the same time, it has both tannin-oriented astringency and mouth-watering acidity, plus it is generally quite flavorful and aromatic without being heavy. Oh – and it’s the perfect foil for your daily breakfast of soft-scrambled eggs and white truffles, so there’s that! However, they are not all created equally. As I often say, “The same grape grown in different places has different faces.” Our 2017 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco ($51.99) is delightful today and built for the long haul if you choose to add it to your cellar. 2017 was a warmer vintage in the area, creating a slightly fuller expression across the board by way of vintage comparison – concentration, tannin, phenolics (the stuff that smells and tastes like more specific stuff). Loaded with black and ripe red cherries and hints of tar and violets, this is serious stuff and an elegant addition to your cellar or dinner table. Think beef, lamb, pork, mushrooms, hard cheeses, truffles…yum!!!
Hi! I’m the paragraph which was alluded to above. We think often too narrowly (myself included) regarding the various grape varieties cultivated in not only specific regions, but especially in those that are either declassified (associated with a more general geographical indication for a number of reasons, most commonly elective winemaking not in accordance with the laws of other more specific geographical indications) or from minor subzones with little to no familiarity to the masses. Most frequently blended in the ‘Alto’ Piemonte (north of Barolo – give or take), Croatina is frankly one of those grapes. 2019 La Colombera ‘La Romba’, Colli Tortonesi ($17.99) is supple and smooth with round tannins and high-toned red fruit (cranberry and raspberry) with a hint of underlying spice. 100% stainless steel-oriented aging affords a certain purity of fruit and an inarguable sense of ‘crushability’. Colli Tortonesi is located east of Asti which is east of Alba and is an area with a terrific sense of value. We also have a nice alternative to the stereotypically more expensive Cortese based white wine, Gavi di Gavi, in the 2019 Ciapé da Uve Cortese from our friends at Valli Unite ($19.99), hailing from the same general area. Both wines are really approachable and extremely compatible with wide-ranging cuisines.
After a short swim to Sicily, we have two white wine gems to explore. A region which has EXPLODED in popularity over the past 10 years (pun intended, as it’s found on the slopes of an active volcano), Etna Rosso/Bianco offers some pretty killer juice. Located in the northeast of the island, this high-altitude growing region is often compared stylistically to Burgundy Pinot Noirs and to a marginally lesser extent, Chardonnays. Either way, the wines are generally elegant, fresh, balanced, mineral-forward and offer rewarding experiences for both immediate and moderate-term enjoyment. 2018 Palmento Costanzo ‘Mofete’ Etna Bianco, Sicily ($24.99) is composed of 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto, culled from the Santo Spirito Contrada (Cru) on north-facing slopes at a whopping 700 meters in elevation. The result after four months in stainless steel tanks and a good amount of lees (yeast) contact is a very pretty wine with a wonderfully tactile expression (aka, texture) medium straw yellow with a fragrant bouquet of citrus fruit and mineral, with hints of Mediterranean herbs. Crudo and most leaner fish preparations, soft cheeses, charcuterie, grilled sardines and olives are good pals with this wine.
Similarly, from eastern Sicily near the ancient city of Siracusa, one of our favorite skin-contact whites of the moment (orange wine) is 2019 Cantina Marilina ‘Sikelè’ Grecanico, Terre Siciliane ($19.99). Now in its second generation of Paternò family-ownership, the domain is 60 hectares of organically farmed land with an ever-growing level of polyculture, a farming technique which leads to healthier soils and actually enhances natural pest management by encouraging biodiversity in the vineyard. Nothing crazy here; the wine sees just one day of skin contact before fermenting under native yeast in concrete and spending six months on its fine lees. The result is palate pleasing to say the least, with medium-plus weight and an ever-intriguing interplay between citrus oil and a savory saline character.
Come visit us to give these Italian beauties a try with no obligation to buy, on Thursday….but I dare you not to fall in love with them all! You’ve been warned….
Ciao Ciao,
Todd (aka, TL)