It’s Not All Sausage
Several lifetimes ago, I was pursuing my PhD in History, with a focus on the cultural history of urban development and its connection to gambling on the French Riviera. To put it in cocktail party terms, I studied casino gambling in the city of Nice. I spent a year in that seaside city researching and writing by day, drinking Provençal wine and playing roulette by night. I lived in a literal palace and never actually went to the beach despite living less than 3 blocks from it.
Nice is France, and it is not France. It has changed hands so many times among various kingdoms and empires that its core identity is an admixture of local, national, and international cultures all blending and colliding together while tourists drive Lamborghini spyders up and down the seaside boulevard coming to and from their superyachts. You can find classically French boeuf tartare and Bordeaux right next to a traditional Italian linguine di cozze and Pinot Grigio. It is truly a kind of melting pot.
It should come as no surprise that France, a place whose borders have shifted time and again over the millennia, is hardly a monolith. Venture toward the very edges of l’hexagone, as the French say in reference to the vague shape of their country, and it starts to feel very un-France, culturally and linguistically. Consider the region of Alsace.
Alsatians are decidedly French (and decidedly friendlier than their international reputation which precedes them), but the German influences are omnipresent, from the language to the architecture and cuisine. The region has changed hands between France and Germany three times in the last hundred and fifty years alone, thanks to three devastating wars in three generations. Alsatians could wake up in the morning to find their street signs changed overnight from French to German, or vice versa.
Despite this history of devastation and despair, Alsace is a place of quaint delights and abundant sunshine. It receives, in fact, more than 250 days of sun a year thanks to the blocking effect of the Vosges mountains. This is not a temperamental climate for temperamental grapes, like Burgundy. The grapes grow full and fat on the vines - Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Muscat filled with abundant spice, vivacious acid, and ageworthiness that can rival grand cru Burgundy.
If you venture across Alsace’s border into the Pfalz region of Germany, you will find similar conditions and similar styles of wine. A common history and culture links these two regions together. Alsace is home to white pork sausages, noodles, apples, and cabbage - not exactly Parisian delicacies. But the cuisine and the wine match beautifully, which is, of course, perfectly French. Here is a recipe adapted from an Alsatian classic, with an international selection of wines to fit.
Porc en << choucroute >> ~ Table Thirteen
Ingredients
2 lbs., pork shoulder, cut into 2” cubes
2 tsp., salt
½ tsp., black pepper
½ tsp., garlic powder
½ tsp., sweet Hungarian paprika
½ tsp., dill leaves
¼ tsp., ground thyme
¼ tsp., celery seed
1 head of Savoy cabbage, shredded
3 tbsp., unsalted butter
1 large sweet Vidalia onion, finely sliced
4 cups, water
½ cup, white wine vinegar
1 tsp., green peppercorns
1 tsp., juniper berries
½ tsp., caraway seeds
½ tsp., fennel seeds
1 bay leaf
3 whole cloves
½ cinnamon stick
Special Tools
Cheesecloth
Kitchen twine
Recipe
In a large bowl, coat the pork with the salt, pepper, garlic powder, paprika, dill, thyme, and celery seed.
In a dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, heat the butter over medium-high heat until frothy. Add the pork and sear until a deep golden brown, turning and stirring frequently to ensure even browning, 5-7 minutes.
Lower the heat to medium low and add the cabbage and onions. Stir to coat with the butter and pork fat and saute for 5 minutes.
Cut a square of cheesecloth and place the peppercorns, juniper berries, caraway seeds, fennel seeds, bay leaf, and cloves in the center. Wrap the cheesecloth around the herbs to form a satchel, securing tightly with the kitchen twine. Add to the pot.
Pour in the water and vinegar. Cover and gently braise over low heat until the pork is pull-apart tender, about 2 hours.
Serve over white rice, butter noodles, or roasted potatoes.
Wine Pairings
Domaine Joblot, “En Veau” Givry 1er Cru
One of Givry's top 2 producers of Chardonnay, this is a gem of a White Burgundy from the Côte Chalonnaise. The nose is grassy with vanilla blossom and the gentle aroma of fresh lemons. A rich, creamy texture greets the palate, replete with pears and a slate-mineral structure.
Belle Pente, Pinot Gris Willamette Valley
Dried nectarine, wet sand, crème fraîche. This wine is warming, savory, and so clean. Think about pairing with a little risotto primavera, mushroom quiche, or ham & brie on a baguette.
Famille Hauller, Pinot Gris “Les Prémices” Alsace AOC
Notes of punchy vanilla, sweet green grape, macerated quince, with a rich aroma and that beautiful acid that only Alsace can deliver. Pairs extremely well with pork, soft cheeses, and South Asian cuisine!
Karthäuserhof, Bruno Kabinett Feinherb Riesling
An explosion of lime and passionfruit. The acidity is off the hook and it goes down way too easily. Give this bottle a try before the staff drinks it all!
