98 Degrees (Not the Boy Band)
You asked for summer and now it’s here - with a vengeance. The sun sets, but the temperature remains somewhere between “Broil-Hi” and “Surface of the Sun.” The Red Sox returned from the All-Star Break primed and focused to promptly drop 12 of their last 15. Eversource is laughing all the way to the bank on your dime. They’re about to shut the Red Line down until, what, 2027?
But there are tomatoes. Gorgeous Christmas tree-esque baubles of red, gold, purple, and crimson. They’re sweet like a Red Delicious apple and hanging heavy on the vines. Can tomatoes save you from this Gulf Coast fever dream of a summer? Here’s an argument for “yes.”
It’s almost a crime to adulter tomatoes with any sort of stewing, sautéing, or saucing. Notwithstanding the fact that the Citgo sign is melting like a Salvador Dali original and turning on a stove is like lighting a kerosene tank in the middle of a bonfire, this year’s tomatoes deserve to be tasted in all their raw regalness. There’s nothing so simple yet so satisfying than a few slices of an heirloom tomato nestled among fluffy white coins of mozzarella di bufala, topped with some hand-torn basil leaves, Sicilian olive oil, and a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar (the older the better - it should run like maple syrup from the bottle or else you might as well spoon out the dregs of last week’s unused Montepulciano d’Abruzzo).
The shame about tomato season is its brevity. Blink and you’re suddenly staring at a wall of pumpkins in the grocery store (don’t worry it will still be 107 degrees out, I’m sure). Some brave souls out there might try their hand at canning, but the sweat equity required is typically beyond the average cutting board warrior. Luckily, there’s an option out there for even a basic chef - the quick pickle.
Pickling anything allows for long-term storage at room temperature in a sealed container. Again, that requires time, talent, and material. If that’s your thing, then salude. But for everyone else, a quick pickle can give you weeks of fresh produce preserved safely in the refrigerator. All you need are a few basic ingredients available at a local grocery store.
Note: There is always a danger of contamination when pickling for the short- or medium-term. 99% of that danger is in kitchen dirt - countertops, stove pots, jars, lids. Anything you’re going to touch or use for pickling needs to be surgical suite-level clean.
Table Thirteen ~ Pickled Tomato Salad with Feta Cheese
Ingredients
1 pint, fresh cherry tomatoes
1 bay leaf
1 tsp., dried Sicilian oregano
1 garlic clove, very thinly sliced
1 tsp., black peppercorns
1 tsp., coriander seeds (optional)
1 cup, white vinegar
1 cup, water
1 tbsp., kosher salt
8 oz., feta blocks, cut into triangles
Salt & black pepper
6 hand-torn basil leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar
Toasted baguette slices
Recipe
Fill a very clean mason jar with the tomatoes, bay leaf, oregano, garlic, peppercorns, and coriander seeds (if using) just short of the top.
Pour the vinegar and water into a small saucepan. Add the salt.
Heat the pot over high until it just reaches a boil. Take it off the heat and let it cool for 1 minute.
Very slowly, pour the hot mixture into the mason jar, ensuring that the contents of the jar are completely covered.
Using a towel or a flexible hot pad, gently pick up the mason jar and tap it firmly 6-8 times on the countertop, making sure not to strike it hard enough to break the glass. The goal is to eliminate all the bubbles on the surface of the liquid that may contain contaminants.
Once the bubbles have all been removed, screw the lid onto the jar tightly and allow it to cool. Place it in the refrigerator until chilled.
Arrange the feta artfully on a platter. Spoon the pickled tomatoes on top of the feta. Sprinkle the dish with salt and pepper to taste.
Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and sprinkle the basil leaves on top of the tomatoes and feta. Serve immediately with toasted baguette slices.
Note: Quick pickled vegetables improve with every day they remain sealed in the fridge. Wait a minimum of 24 hours before serving. Once the jar is opened, consume within 10-14 days.
Wine Pairings
In Brief: Metodo Ancestrale. This lightly sparkling rosé pét-nat is full of fresh rose petals and soft suede. Delicate, creamy bubbles alongside its energetic acidity make you want to dance. Che bello! A WP Staff Favorite, we wait for it all year.
Aia Delle Monache, L’Intruso Pét-Nat
In Brief: This is such a fun wine! Earthy salinity with a little apricot and tangerine zest. Bone dry and ready for food. It's one of our favorite pét nats.
Col di Corte, Vigneto di Tobia
Glassy smooth Verdicchio that's too good to pass up. This wine is soft, mineral driven, and incredibly chic. It's round but with beautifully balanced acidity.
