10 Questions with Steven Alexander
1. How did you get started with De Maison Selections?
I have been with De Maison for ten years and working in the wine business for 20 years. I worked with André Tamers, the founder of De Maison, when I was a buyer in Chicago and I also represented the portfolio as a distributor when I lived in Miami. Ten years ago, I was the Beverage Director for Spiaggia Restaurant in Chicago where I ran one of the most cutting-edge all-Italian wine programs in the US; then the opportunity came up to champion progressive wines of Spain & France with De Maison.
I have been fortunate to be a part of the rise of regional Italian wines in the US, and now we are doing the same thing for Spain, as well as covering the incredible changes in French wines. It has been a really exciting and rewarding thing to be a part of.
2. What’s one positive story you can share since we all started dealing with the effects of COVID-19?
This year has certainly been the most challenging year in memory, both personally and professionally. What has been comforting and what keeps me going, is knowing that everyone is going through similar individual struggles, and there has been an incredible amount of empathy and solidarity, not only in our food and wine community, but throughout our culture right now.
There are so many examples of this, but in my neighborhood in Logan Square in Chicago, people are out in the streets helping one another, sharing resources, checking on their neighbors and organizing as a neighborhood to make sure everyone makes it through this. There have been many negatives, but I feel the slowing down of time has provided an environment for people to reassess their priorities and engage more with their communities. I see so many people helping their neighbors and a greater connection with our common humanity is the result.
3. Which varietal or region do you think is in for a big 2021?
Spain and France are just exploding with incredible new wines from up-and-coming regions and I think some of the biggest stories are coming from the regions we profiled in our Zoom tasting on Thursday. Alpine wines from Savoie are absolutely incredible. Wine drinkers have discovered the Jura in the last decade, but we feel neighboring Savoie is the next hot region. Mallorca, off the coast of Spain is exploding with indigenous wine and culinary energy which connects the dots between Barcelona and Provence. We talked about the Callet and Mantonegro grapes during our tasting, which are both important native varieties to the island. Mencía from Bierzo is another important grape, as well as the Prieto Picudo, which we tasted. It gives us wines in the same spirit as Beaujolais, fresh wines that are easy to drink. I think the big story is that Spain is making the indigenous wines we will be drinking in the 2020's, along with the new regional wines of France.
4. Which member of the Wu tang Clan would you like to meet and why? And part two, what bottle of wine would you like to open with them?
Wu-Tang Clan literally changed my life and the entire fabric of music for me. I was a young punk rocker who also appreciated hip-hop, and then 36 Chambers dropped and changed my life, it was the most punk rock album of its generation. Total game changer. I would have to go with ODB, Ol' Dirty Bastard, because there is no father to his style, which is why I would open Doniene Gorondonna's "Beltza" red Txakoli from pre-phylloxera Hondarabbi Beltza - which is the genetic parent to Cabernet Franc and Carménère. Drinking old-vine red Txakoli, you can just hear ODB singing "O' baby I like it RAW!". We could talk about Wu-Tang's relationship with wine all night... and we will!
5. If you’re not drinking wine (or sherry) what’s your beverage of choice?
I'm always drinking some sort of beverage. During the day I drink a lot of locally roasted coffee (bonus round, I used to work in coffee before wine), but for other alcoholic beverages, I really dig vermouth and I'm also a Chartreuse nut. VEP Chartreuse is my desert island beverage.
6. What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever gotten?
A buddy of mine and mentor, Jay Wolmer, who worked at Windows on the World and Russian Tea Room in NY, OG wine programs that have influenced countless modern lists, once told me to "always know what business you are in". It seems like a simple statement, but it is really profound. Our company, De Maison Selections, is in the business of selling the highest-quality, farm-to-bottle wine, while setting new standards for things like storytelling, education, and transportation. We're in the business of making the best fine wine accessible to the consumer. You always have to remember your roots and what your mission is and not get distracted. Some companies try to focus on everything, and as a result, they are good at nothing. I always try to remember what business I am in.
7. Favorite unexpected wine pairing?
I am an avid cook and love to explore traditional and non-traditional flavor pairings. One of my favorite discoveries is Manzanilla Sherry with salty fish and chips, especially if malt vinegar is involved. Fino or Manzanilla sherry with fried oysters or clams is also a revelation, as well as fresh oysters. For me, there's no better pairing than a dozen fresh oysters and a half-bottle of cold La Cigarrera Manzanilla Sherry. Take your Sherry to the beach, you won't regret it!
8. Favorite wine region for a vacation?
We always try to explore a different region each year. Two of our favorites are Spanish Basque Country, where you can rent a country house in the mountains overlooking the majestic Cantabrian Sea, and enjoy the incredible Basque cuisine and way of life. Also, the Marche region of Italy. Marche is the garden of Italy, more remote and local than Tuscany, on the other side of the mountains. It is a food and wine revelation with some of the best seafood in Italy. There are so many great places, but these are two favorites.
9. Now a serious Chicago question, hot dogs or deep dish? Favorite pairing with your choice?
Definitely hot dogs, and when I say hot dog, I mean a Chicago-style dog, which is the only way! My favorite pairing with a Chicago dog is a yeasty natural cider from Spain, I like to drink either our Isastegi Basque cider or Trabanco Cosecha Propia. A dry, tangy natural cider has the right acidity (high), 6% alcohol, so it's refreshing, and the tanginess just works with all the flavors of a dog. Gotta have that green relish, sport peppers and pickles! Dijon mustard and never ketchup!
10. If you weren’t slinging vino – what would you be doing?
That's a hard question, as working with wine and food is so much a part of who I am, I can't imagine doing anything else at this point in my life. I would still be telling stories, trying to share other authentic cultural treasures in some capacity. I studied cultural anthropology and environmental studies in college, so wine encompasses all of the things I am passionate about. In an alternate reality, I would live on Mallorca and spend my time surfing and fishing!
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